Niacinamide: what vitamin B3 can do in skincare – an honest assessment
Niacinamide is one of the ingredients that skincare is talking about most right now. Serums with 5 or 10 % are on the shelves of every drugstore, and on social media the substance is considered an all-rounder. In this profile you'll learn what niacinamide actually is, what it is used for in cosmetics, which concentrations are common and what you can combine it with. And we explain honestly why the substance plays a completely different role in a cleansing foam than in a serum – including in our own VEGAN FOX products.
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What is niacinamide?
Niacinamide, also called nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3. It is a white powder that dissolves well in water and is considered comparatively stable to light and air in formulas. This makes it attractive for manufacturers, because it can be worked into serums, creams, fluids and cleansing products. In the INCI list it appears as Niacinamide. For cosmetics, the substance is usually produced synthetically. So it does not come from animals and is basically suitable for vegan formulas.
Niacinamide, niacin, nicotinic acid – not the same thing
The names are often mixed up. Niacin is the umbrella term for vitamin B3 and covers both nicotinic acid and nicotinamide. Nicotinic acid can cause a marked, temporary redness with a feeling of warmth on the skin, the so-called flush. Niacinamide is the form used in skincare and is considered much better tolerated. None of the three substances has anything to do with nicotine from tobacco – the similarity of the names is purely historical.
What niacinamide is used for in skincare
Manufacturers advertise the ingredient for many purposes: for a smoother complexion, a more even skin tone, less shine and a strengthened skin barrier. Some of these claims are based on studies that were mostly carried out with serums or creams in concentrations of 2 to 5 % over several weeks. The results are interesting, but often with small groups and short durations. That is why the classification matters: in cosmetics, niacinamide is a care ingredient, not a medicine. For acne, rosacea, pigmentation disorders or other skin problems: if you have health questions, consult a doctor.
Advertising claims put into perspective
| Typical advertising claim | Realistic assessment |
|---|---|
| "For an even complexion" | studied mainly for serums that stay on the skin and are used regularly over weeks |
| "Supports the skin barrier" | a frequently mentioned effect in studies, but always in combination with the whole routine |
| "Less shine" | often described, perception is individual |
| "The higher the percentage, the better" | not proven, higher concentrations are more likely to irritate sensitive skin |
| "With niacinamide" on a cleansing product | short contact time, more a building block of the skin feel than an active-ingredient concept |
Concentration: how much niacinamide is common?
Specialist articles from pharmacy practice usually name 2 to 5 % as a well-tolerated range for skincare. In shops, however, you'll also find serums with 10 % and more. Whether a product states the proportion is voluntary. With many creams and cleansing products you don't find out the amount at all and can only roughly estimate from the position in the INCI list whether the substance is near the front or rather at the end.
More is not automatically better
Very highly dosed serums in particular are not always the best choice for sensitive skin. Some people react to them with redness, tingling or blemishes. If you are new to it, you are usually better off with a lower concentration and a test on a small area of skin. A calm start makes more sense than three new active ingredients at once.
Niacinamide in cleansing: an honest assessment
This is the point many guides leave out: whether niacinamide is in a serum or in a cleansing foam makes a big difference. A serum stays on the skin for hours. A cleansing foam is applied, briefly massaged in and rinsed off again after a few seconds to a minute. In this short contact time, an ingredient can naturally contribute less than in a product that stays on the skin.
In our range, the substance is found in both VEGAN FOX cleansing foams. We counted through the INCI lists from the product descriptions:
| Product | Niacinamide in the INCI list | Other care ingredients according to INCI |
|---|---|---|
| Cleansing foam for dry skin (200 ml) | position 12 | aloe vera, panthenol, lactic acid, urea |
| Cleansing foam for normal skin (200 ml) | position 13 | chamomile, panthenol, glycerin, lactic acid, urea |
To be honest: in both foams, niacinamide sits rather in the back part of the list. The proportion is therefore probably small, and because it is rinsed off, the contact time is short. The foams are therefore first and foremost mild facial cleansers. According to the product description, the cleansing foam for dry skin is "our first step before every sauna" and is applied morning and evening to damp skin. If you want to care for your skin specifically with niacinamide, it is better to combine the cleansing with a serum or a cream that lists the substance further forward in the INCI list.
We explain in detail which of the two foams suits your skin type in our guide to cleansing foam for normal or dry skin. Incidentally, our VEGAN FOX face cream contains no niacinamide; it relies on almond oil, avocado oil, chamomile and panthenol.
Combining: niacinamide with acids, vitamin C and retinol
One reason for its popularity is that the substance can be combined with many other ingredients. A few tips help with your routine:
- Lactic acid and other AHAs: our cleansing foams already contain niacinamide and lactic acid in one formula. With a separate acid peel plus serum: increase slowly and watch out for irritation.
- Vitamin C: the old warning never to use the two substances together goes back to older laboratory tests. Specialist articles tend to point out that the pH value of the products plays a role. If you have sensitive skin, you can simply separate the two in time, for example vitamin C in the morning and niacinamide in the evening.
- Retinol: often used together. If you are prone to redness, it is better to introduce new active ingredients one after the other.
- Order: cleanse first, then thin products such as serums, then cream. In the morning, sun protection follows.
Niacinamide and the sauna
Before the sauna, mild cleansing makes sense; it is better to leave out serums with active ingredients. After the last sauna session, let your skin cool down first and then care for it as usual. It is better to test new products on a quiet evening at home than directly after the heat. You can read more about this in our guide to skincare around the sauna.
Tolerability: what to look out for
Niacinamide is considered well tolerated in common concentrations. Nevertheless, every skin can react differently, and often it is other ingredients such as fragrances that cause problems. Test new products on a small area first, for example on your neck or in the crook of your arm. If your skin turns very red, itches or burns, stop using the product. If the problems persist, consult a doctor.
Related reading: Cleansing foam for dry skin or normal skin: which one suits you? · Lactic acid peel for the face: how it works, how to use it and sun protection · Panthenol: what the care ingredient really does in shower gel and cream
Conclusion
Niacinamide is a well-researched, comparatively stable form of vitamin B3 that is found in many skincare products. The substance has been studied mainly in serums and creams with 2 to 5 % that stay on the skin. Higher concentrations are not automatically better. In cleansing products such as our VEGAN FOX foams, it has only brief contact and sits far back in the INCI list – there it is a small building block, not an active-ingredient concept. Knowing this helps you assess advertising promises soberly and put together your routine consciously.
Frequently asked questions
Is niacinamide vegan?
For cosmetics, the substance is usually produced synthetically and does not come from animals. Whether a product is vegan depends on all its ingredients. Our VEGAN FOX cleansing foams are vegan.
Can you use niacinamide every day?
In common concentrations, yes; many products are intended for morning and evening. Follow the instructions for use and, if you have sensitive skin, start with a low concentration.
Can you use niacinamide and vitamin C together?
Many specialist articles today consider the combination possible; the pH value of the products plays a role. If you are unsure or have sensitive skin, use the two at different times of day.
Why does my skin turn red after a niacinamide serum?
This can be due to a high concentration, other ingredients or sensitive skin. Stop using the product and, if necessary, try a lower dosage. If the redness persists, consult a doctor.
Does niacinamide in a cleansing foam do anything?
Because of the short contact time and the usually small proportion, the contribution is limited. A cleansing foam is primarily there for gentle cleansing. For targeted care with the substance, a product that stays on the skin is more suitable.
Personally written by Martin – founder of BeachAndSteam. As a family, we have run the Meri Sauna at Lake Kulkwitz for more than 18 years.
