Microplastics in cosmetics: EU ban, deadlines and how to spot them in the INCI list
Microplastics in cosmetics have been an issue for years – and since October 2023 they have also been a legal one. The EU has decided to ban intentionally added microplastics step by step. But what exactly counts as microplastic? When does the ban apply to shower gel or cream? And how do you spot plastics in the ingredient list when the packaging says nothing about it? In this article we explain the terms, the deadlines up to 2035 and the most important INCI names. And because we sell cosmetics ourselves, at the end we honestly check the ingredient lists of our own VEGAN FOX products.
Contents10
- What is microplastic?
- Where plastics are typically found in cosmetics
- Solid and liquid plastics: the important difference
- The EU ban: deadlines at a glance
- Spotting microplastics in cosmetics in the INCI list
- Our honest INCI check: VEGAN FOX
- How to avoid microplastics in cosmetics
- Are microplastics in cosmetics harmful to health?
- Conclusion
- Frequently asked questions
What is microplastic?
According to the EU definition, microplastics are synthetic, solid, water-insoluble and non-biodegradable plastic particles smaller than 5 mm. There are two types:
- Primary microplastic is intentionally added to products, for example as abrasive grains in scrubs, as glitter or as a filler.
- Secondary microplastic is created when larger plastic items break down, such as packaging, tyres or clothing made of synthetic fibres.
For cosmetics, primary microplastic is the main concern. It enters sewage treatment plants via wastewater, which cannot filter it out completely, and from there it reaches rivers, lakes and seas.
Where plastics are typically found in cosmetics
Plastics perform very different tasks in cosmetics. Typical examples:
- Scrubs: Plastic grains used to be common as abrasives; today they are banned.
- Shower gel and shampoo: Polymers serve as thickeners, opacifiers for a creamy look or as conditioners that change how the skin feels.
- Creams and lotions: Silicones and acrylates provide a smooth feel when applying and a stable consistency.
- Make-up and sun protection: Plastics form films, improve adhesion or are included as glitter.
So microplastics in cosmetics are not just a scrub issue – they can appear in very different products.
Solid and liquid plastics: the important difference
Besides solid particles, many products also contain plastics in liquid, gel-like or waxy form. They serve, for example, as film formers, thickeners or opacifiers. These dissolved or liquid polymers do not fall under the EU definition of microplastic, but environmental groups and the German consumer advice centre (Verbraucherzentrale) also view them critically because many of them are hard to break down. The problem for you when shopping: the INCI name usually does not reveal whether a plastic is solid or liquid.
The EU ban: deadlines at a glance
The legal basis is Regulation (EU) 2023/2055. It bans placing microplastics on the market in products step by step. According to the Verbraucherzentrale, these stages apply to microplastics in cosmetics and related products:
| From | What is affected | Examples |
|---|---|---|
| October 2023 | Microbeads as abrasive, polishing or cleaning agents | Scrubs with plastic grains, loose glitter |
| 17 October 2027 | Rinse-off cosmetics | Shower gel, shampoo |
| 17 October 2029 | Cosmetics that stay on skin or hair (leave-on) | Creams, lotions, hair gel |
| 17 October 2035 | Decorative cosmetics | Lipstick, nail polish, make-up |
Important: the transition periods mean that microplastics in cosmetics can, depending on the product type, still be legally on sale for several years. And liquid polymers are not covered by the regulation.
Spotting microplastics in cosmetics in the INCI list
The packaging rarely says "contains microplastics". So you have to read the ingredient list. How an INCI list is structured in general is explained in our article Reading an INCI list. The Verbraucherzentrale names these terms as indicators of plastics:
- Acrylates: Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates Crosspolymer and similar compounds with "Acrylate" in the name
- Classic plastics: Polyethylene (PE), Polypropylene (PP), Polystyrene (PS), Polyurethane (PUR), Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET), Polyamide or Nylon
- Polyquaternium with a number, for example Polyquaternium-7
- Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) and Polypropylene Glycol (PPG), hard to break down above a certain chain length according to the Verbraucherzentrale
- Silicones such as Dimethicone or Cyclomethicone
- In general: the word "Polymer" in the name
Not every "poly" means plastic. Polyglyceryl compounds, for instance, are emulsifiers based on glycerin. If in doubt, apps such as ToxFox by BUND help with classification. According to the Verbraucherzentrale, certified natural cosmetics do without petroleum-based plastics.
Our honest INCI check: VEGAN FOX
We sell cosmetics ourselves, so we checked the ingredient lists of the VEGAN FOX products in this article against the terms above. Important: this is a comparison of INCI lists, not a laboratory analysis. Whether a polymer is solid or liquid cannot be read from the INCI.
| Product | Abrasives / base | Plastic terms from the list above |
|---|---|---|
| Body scrubs ginger, peppermint, coffee | Salt, apricot kernel powder, depending on the variety ginger, mint leaves or coffee | None found |
| Hand cream mango butter & avocado oil | Avocado oil, mango butter, glycerin | None found (Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate is an emulsifier, not a plastic) |
| Shower gel linden blossom and red grape | Surfactants, aloe vera, panthenol, betaine | Polyquaternium-7 |
| Shower gel grapefruit | Surfactants, aloe vera, panthenol, betaine | Polyquaternium-7, Sodium Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer |
The result is mixed, and we say it as it is: the scrubs work with salt, apricot kernels and, depending on the variety, coffee or plant parts – they contain no plastic grains. In the hand cream with mango butter we found none of the plastic terms listed. The shower gel, on the other hand, contains Polyquaternium-7 in all three scents, and the grapefruit version additionally a styrene/acrylates copolymer. Both are among the substances the Verbraucherzentrale lists as plastics in cosmetics. If you want to avoid such polymers on principle, you should know this about the shower gel.
How to avoid microplastics in cosmetics
- Read the INCI list: Look out for the terms in the list above.
- Choose scrubs with natural abrasives: Salt, sugar, coffee or kernel powder instead of plastic. Since 2023 microbeads in scrubs have been banned anyway. How to use such a scrub is explained in our article How to use a body scrub properly.
- Look for labels: Certified natural cosmetics do without petroleum-based plastics. "Vegan" on its own, however, says nothing about plastics – more on this in Vegan cosmetics: what "vegan" really means.
- Use apps: ToxFox by BUND scans the barcode and shows plastics.
- Less is more: Using small amounts reduces everything that ends up in wastewater.
Textiles also shed fibres when washed. Natural fibres such as cotton are not plastic – so a cotton hammam towel does not shed microplastic. What labels such as OEKO-TEX mean for textiles is explained in our article Hammam towel with OEKO-TEX, GOTS or organic.
Are microplastics in cosmetics harmful to health?
Whether and to what extent microplastics from cosmetics harm health has not yet been conclusively clarified by science. What is undisputed is that they accumulate in the environment because they hardly break down. The EU ban is therefore aimed primarily at protecting the environment. For specific health questions, seek medical advice.
Related reading: Reading an INCI list: how to understand the ingredients in your cosmetics · Vegan cosmetics: what "vegan" really means – and what it doesn't · How to use a body scrub properly: types, frequency and step-by-step guide
Conclusion
Microplastics in cosmetics are being banned step by step in the EU: microbeads since 2023, rinse-off products from October 2027, creams and lotions from October 2029, make-up from 2035. Liquid plastics remain permitted. If you want to avoid plastics, read the INCI list and look out for terms such as Acrylates, Polyethylene or Polyquaternium. It is worth a look at our own products too: the scrubs and the mango butter hand cream do without the plastics listed, while our shower gel contains Polyquaternium-7.
Frequently asked questions
Are microplastics in cosmetics already banned?
Partly. Microbeads as abrasives have been banned since October 2023. For rinse-off cosmetics the ban applies from 17 October 2027, for leave-on products from 17 October 2029, and for make-up, lipstick and nail polish from 17 October 2035.
How do I recognise microplastics in cosmetics?
By INCI names such as Polyethylene, Polypropylene, Acrylates Copolymer, Nylon, Polyquaternium or generally terms containing "Polymer". However, the INCI list does not reveal whether a substance is solid or liquid.
Are liquid plastics also microplastics?
Not according to the EU definition, because microplastic is defined there as solid particles. Environmental groups and the Verbraucherzentrale still view liquid polymers critically because many are hard to break down.
Is vegan cosmetics free of microplastics?
Not automatically. "Vegan" only means that no animal ingredients are included. Plastics are synthetic and therefore also vegan.
Do the VEGAN FOX scrubs contain microplastics?
Not according to the INCI list. The abrasives are salt, apricot kernel powder and, depending on the variety, ginger, mint leaves or coffee.
Personally written by Martin – founder of BeachAndSteam and sauna operator at Lake Kulkwitz for more than 18 years.