Cosmetics shelf life: PAO symbol, best-before date and proper storage
Creams, scrubs and shower gels don't last forever – but how long exactly? When it comes to cosmetics shelf life, there are two labels that many people confuse: the best-before date with the small hourglass and the PAO symbol with the open jar. In this guide we explain both, show you typical values for face cream, shower gel, scrub and more in a table, list the signs of spoiled products and give you tips on how to keep your skincare good for longer.
Contents10
- Cosmetics shelf life: best-before date or PAO?
- Typical shelf life after opening
- How to tell that cosmetics have gone off
- Natural cosmetics and shelf life: are there differences?
- What shortens cosmetics shelf life
- How to store cosmetics properly
- Planning your supply sensibly
- Disposing of expired cosmetics
- Conclusion
- Frequently asked questions
Cosmetics shelf life: best-before date or PAO?
In the EU, the Cosmetics Regulation determines which label appears on the packaging. What matters is how long a product lasts unopened:
- Up to 30 months: The product must carry a best-before date. It follows the words "best used before the end of" or an hourglass symbol.
- Longer than 30 months: A best-before date is not required. Instead, the PAO symbol shows how long the product can be used after opening.
For certain products where the time after opening doesn't matter, the PAO symbol is omitted, for example single-use portions or aerosol cans that don't let air in.
Reading the PAO symbol
PAO stands for "Period After Opening". The symbol shows an open cream jar with a number and an "M" for months. "6M" means: after first opening, the product can be used for six months, "12M" accordingly for twelve months. The period starts when you open it, not when you buy it.
Tip: Write the opening date on the packaging or on a small label with a waterproof pen. Without a note, nobody remembers after a few months when the cream was opened.
Typical shelf life after opening
For the shelf life of your cosmetics, the following values are common guidelines, as often found on packaging. The information on your product always takes precedence.
| Product | Common value after opening | What to watch out for |
|---|---|---|
| Face cream | 6 to 12 months | contains water and oils, don't take it out with wet fingers |
| Hand and foot cream | 12 months | close the lid, don't leave it in the sun |
| Shower gel | 12 months | don't let water run into the bottle |
| Facial cleanser | 6 to 12 months | keep the pump head clean |
| Body scrub with oil | 6 to 12 months | take it out with dry fingers, oil can go rancid |
| Sun protection | 6 to 12 months | avoid heat on the beach and in the car |
| Mascara | 3 to 6 months | don't share eye products |
The type of packaging also plays a role in cosmetics shelf life: you reach into an open jar every time, whereas with pump dispensers and bottles less air and dirt gets to the contents.
How to tell that cosmetics have gone off
A product can go off even within the period, for example if it was stored incorrectly. So trust your senses:
- Smell: The cream smells rancid, sour or simply different from the beginning.
- Colour: It has become darker, yellowish or blotchy.
- Consistency: Oil and water have separated, the cream is curdled, lumpy or suddenly watery.
- Mould: Spots or a film on the surface or on the rim of the lid.
- Skin reaction: A product you have tolerated well so far suddenly stings or itches.
In all these cases: stop using it, even if the date has not yet been reached. If skin reactions persist, please have them checked by a doctor.
Natural cosmetics and shelf life: are there differences?
With natural cosmetics, shelf life is often an issue because many manufacturers avoid certain preservatives. But they don't automatically have a shorter shelf life. What matters is the formula and the packaging: water-based creams need a preservative system, water-free products such as oils or salt scrubs often do without, but can go rancid instead. A look at the INCI list tells you what's inside. Our face cream, for example, contains phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin as preservatives.
What shortens cosmetics shelf life
- Water: Germs need moisture. Water that runs into a jar or tin in the shower is a common reason why products go off early.
- Fingers: Every time you reach into a jar, you bring in skin flakes and germs. Wash and dry your hands first or use a small spatula.
- Heat: Heat speeds up the breakdown of oils and active ingredients and can make emulsions separate.
- Light and air: Sun and oxygen make plant oils go rancid faster. So always close the lid straight away.
Example: our body scrubs
According to the INCI list, the VEGAN FOX body scrubs contain no water: they consist of salt, plant oils and shea butter. In addition, there is tocopherol (vitamin E) and ascorbyl palmitate (a form of vitamin C), which protect the oils from going rancid. Even so: the scrubs come in a tin with an aluminium screw lid, which you shouldn't leave open under the shower spray. Stir briefly before use, take it out with dry fingers and screw the lid on tightly afterwards. According to the product description, they should be stored at room temperature and protected from direct sunlight.
How to store cosmetics properly
Proper storage is the biggest lever you have yourself when it comes to cosmetics and their shelf life.
- Cool, dry and dark: A cupboard in the hallway or bedroom is often better than the humid bathroom. For the VEGAN FOX face cream, the product description states 15 to 25 °C.
- Not in the sauna: Creams stay in your bag or locker and are only used after the last session.
- Not in the car: In summer, a car heats up a lot. We explain in detail what to watch out for in the heat in our article on storing cosmetics in the heat (link below).
- Don't decant unless necessary: If you decant for a trip, use clean, dry containers and only fill as much as you need for those days.
Planning your supply sensibly
For cosmetics shelf life, a supply is no problem as long as it stays unopened. Only open a new product when the old one is empty, and buy skincare you use regularly in a size you will finish within the PAO period. The hand cream with mango butter, for example, contains 120 ml – with daily use it is usually empty long before the period ends. You can find all products in our skincare products.
Disposing of expired cosmetics
Cream residues belong in the residual waste, not down the drain. In Germany, empty plastic or metal packaging usually goes into the yellow bin or yellow bag, glass into the bottle bank. Your local waste advice service will tell you exactly how it works where you live.
Related reading: Storing Cosmetics in the Heat: Car, Beach Bag and Bathroom · How much shower gel do you really need? · Face cream with almond oil and avocado oil: what's in our cream
Conclusion
There are two labels for cosmetics shelf life: products that last a maximum of 30 months unopened carry a best-before date, all others the PAO symbol with the open jar. Note the opening date, keep water and dirty fingers out of jars and tins and store your skincare in a cool, dark place. If a product smells, looks or feels different than usual, throw it away – no matter what it says on the pack.
Frequently asked questions
Can I still use expired cosmetics?
If the PAO period has passed, you should no longer use the product. It does not automatically become dangerous, but effect, consistency and freedom from germs are no longer guaranteed.
How long do unopened cosmetics last?
If no best-before date is printed, the product lasts longer than 30 months unopened – provided it is stored in a cool, dark place.
What does the hourglass on the packaging mean?
The hourglass stands for the best-before date. The date next to it applies to the unopened, properly stored product.
Do cosmetics last longer in the fridge?
For most products this is not necessary, and some emulsions don't tolerate cold well. Follow the storage instructions on the packaging, such as 15 to 25 °C for our face cream.
Why does my cream suddenly smell rancid?
Plant oils oxidise over time, especially with heat, light and air. You should no longer use a cream that smells rancid.
Personally written by Martin – founder of BeachAndSteam and sauna operator at Lake Kulkwitz for more than 18 years.